Firstly I apologise for not searching first to find earlier discussions on this topic but I am being lazy.

I have paid the deposit on a new Baum custom made Ti road bike and soon they will ask me what gearing (and gear) I want on it - wheels, seat, handlebars, gears etc.

I think I know what I want regarding everything except the gears.  My current road bike has Ultegra 7600 everything and has gone reliably since 2007.  

Do I upgrade to Durace?

Do I get electronic shifters?

Also: My current wheels are Mavic Xsyrium Elite (with flat spokes) and they too have been great.  Is there anything better around?  They were very popular in 2007 but I really haven't kept up with changing trends......

I want this bike to maybe be my last (ha ha) as I expect to retire in the next 12 months so want to splurge now while I have an income and set myself up with something nice to ride around the mountains in my retirement.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

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even without galloping age, horsepower boost could be much fun for the $

I'm seeing 1kW kits that would make the perfect addition to an unobtainium spendy custom bike ;-)

Just a little smartness to make it a legal 250W, and off you go. Whoosh

Are you getting another Baum bike???

I thought that you`ve had already owned a Baum new toy in your thread in Dec`13.

True Snowy.  But that was 2013!  Two whole years ago!   That was/is a tourer and I use it for commuting.  Carries panniers and has MTB gearing so not for speed.  I do love it.

The new Baum is to replace my carbon fibre Scott Contessa.

You know, n+1........ 

One for touring, one for climbing.  Will the next one be for ripping along the flats?  You can't have too much ti! SKI'ing is so much fun!

The reality is that all the group sets discussed are really good so it boils down to personal preference.  I have no interest whatsoever in going electronic but those who have gone electronic give it heaps of phrase, which it rightly deserves.  As you have already brought the frame, have a look as to how the battery would be mounted

My two cents for what it is worth:

  • go Di2 for 2 reasons.  It's much easier to change up to the big chainring if you've got small hands and the Di2 levers are better for small hands than the mechanical levers. Secondly there's a lot less maintenance as you don't have cables to stretch and go out of tune.  
  • get Ultegra for most of it (Dura Ace chain maybe).  And 11 spd will be your only choice now anyway as 10spd is obsolete.  Dura Ace will just cost you a lot extra for no real added value.  And be less durable into the bargain. 
  • put the battery in the seat-tube out of the way.  You can charge from a junction box under the front stem.  And added bonus, when you put TT bars on, you'll be able to plug them in as an auxiliary so you can have shifters on the end.  Go on - I know you really want TT bars :-)  Also, if the battery is in the seat tube, it's well out of the way.  Mine used to be under the bottom bracket - very annoying on the work stand.

Personally I have Mavic Open Pros for every day riding.  They appear indestructible pretty much. I wanted to pick my own hubs so really I only had 2 choices.  If you want a pre-made wheel, then I don't know.  Zipps?  

I found this helpful when considering handbuilds:

Thanks.  That is useful ... if one has 700c wheels. 

I'm forgetful what size wheels Ma Dame chose but mine are tiny hence only two choices. 

I will be having 650 wheels on this bike.  I got them to fit 700's to the tourer and I think it was a mistake.  Steve Hogg had measured me as needing 650 but I wanted to keep to the more common standard.  I am sure the 650's will be better for me.

Would there be a problem on your tourer if you changed the 700's to 650's? Not a geometry person, so forgive the ignorance!

With disc brakes it is very doable. The bottom bracket drop is the only issue but if you go wider tyres than the 700c then you get the standover height back

( sorry the only link I know as it is the same as my bike. Must be plenty of other 700c to 650b conversions to be found on the www)

The problem isn't lack of 650 wheels, rather it's the concessions to geometry that needed to be made to accommodate 700s.  Longer wheelbase etc - although on a tourer that is less of a problem. 

Swapping to 650s won't fix the geometry problem so there's not a lot of point.  It might fix a bit of toe overlap perhaps, but then I've got toe overlap on my 650s anyway. 


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