Hi Guys,

I got one of these earlier in the year for some of our wildlife trips overseas.

What settings are useful for using it as a road bike recording camera? Specifically want it as a safety device. Has to be looped recording obviously + what else?

Also something completely different - any recommendations for a rear view mirror?

Thanks!

Bhanu

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Bhanu I have nothing to offer re camera but have a few thoughts re mirror.

i had a couple of mirrors from Mirrycle https://www.mirrycle.com that attached to the shifter lever that were very effective but both broke after about 12 months each, the second also breaking part of the lever. I think they only fit older Shimano levers

i saw somewhere a home made one (below) that seems to be more long lasting, Someone (Dabba) can tell you about it

i have tried some bar end attaching ones but they all either move around too much, get knocked by my knee or are in such an awkward location that you have to contort yourself to use.

PeterT I think alerted us to Sehen https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/931404464/sehen-one-second-to-... and I thought of getting one, but haven't yet

I have used an Original Mirrycle and have found them to be excellent. However on drop bar bicycles with old style brake levers the Original Mirrycle does involve some modification of the brake lever. I've only had one mirror break in 20 years of use. The mirror is glass and it cracked in a fall. Mounting a modern Mirrycle model on modern levers (like in Bill's photo) is different as is using their flat bar models.

The next best thing I have found, after buying lots of mirrors, is an Axiom FASTFLASH DLX UNIVERSAL . I have one on a drop bar bike and one on a flat bar bike. I had to buy mine from OS (from SJS Cycles in Britain - a most excellent shop I might add).

All of my drop bar fleet have slight variations on the above image as it has been refined. You can see the concept of it here. I've had no problems with this set up for years. Occasionally the cable ties need to be refreshed, but that seems to be all.

Hmmmm! Looked at the Sehem kickstarter page again and seems there are a lot of people unhappy about lack of promised shipments, suggestions the mirrors are as real as the obviously cardboard cut out roos above, pity, seemed like a good idea

I see helmet mirrors more common these days.

Some on glasses too. 

Seems to make sense over the handlebar affixed ones but I don't use either, yet.

For the camera, the main thing is to make sure that part of the bike is in the shot - this enables distances to be judged relative to the fixed position of the bike. So for example if it's rear faciong, make sure the top of the rear wheel is in shot. If forward facing, get the bars or front wheel in shot.

This way you can calibrate passing distances by measuring them out, and show that the camera position is the same when looking at footage - see below for example:

Dan, the measurement in the above pix of 1m provides bad info for plod to interpret. The law is from the extremity of the cyclist, not the centre of the bike. Better to show wheel > cyclist extremity measure, and then cyclist extremity > vehicle extremity. It's the latter measurement that is critical to enforcement. As an example, on most of my bikes, from the centre of the bike to my extreme right - usually elbow, and based on position of my rear view mirror - the wheel > cyclist extremity measure is about 400mm, so that means the vehicle has to be 1.4m away from the centre of the tyre in a <60kph zone, or 1.9m in >60kph zone. Makes a big difference if plod interprets it incorrectly!

Yeah, those diagrams are badly labelled. The distance takes into account the width of the bike, and the difference between the car wheel position and the  wing mirror, so that line is actually more like 1.4m as you say.

After trying lots of them I am satisfied Busch & Muller have it nailed for almost all set-ups. There swivel joint does not vibrate out of position under any circumstances. They have two mounting systems. One in the end of a tube. So it works on flat bars with/without bar ends and it works on drop bars as long as you don't have barend shift levers. You can move it from left to right on your bike depending on what side of the road you are on or you can have two. I now have two and it is awesome for safety and not having to turn around when you really can't. They also have a 55mm and an 80mm mirror. You can easily pop one off and another one on. 80mm is safer. If your bike has a good kickstand you don't ever lean your bike so the mirror doesn't get moved. But I tweak my mirrors when I am riding anyway.

I did use the Mirricycle on drop bar STI levers years ago but found the material brittle plus the connection hard to deal with at airports. The B&M can be taken off/on in 20 seconds.

If you have trekking bars you use their clamp system which just locates the ball-point where you want it. Here's an example..

When parking the bike you just swing it in like this...

It seems to be assumed Bhanu has drop bars. Perhaps not with barends like Bill. So the mirror in the end of the bar works like this...(here comes a lorry in Poland)

Barend levers do present a challenge though. Dabba's attachment to the side of the brake lever looks promising. The B&M clamp system works on drop bars too. So it can be used with barends. But generally, with drop bars,  the problem seems to be where to put your hands. If you do not have barends then the B&M in the barend itself does not compromise any of the holding positions.

On helmet mirrors, they are good but one can find that they are looking in the mirror and turning their head a little to survey the scene behind. In busy areas this can lead to you crashing into something including a pedestrian.

On gopros and 1 or 1.5m, the cops seem to ignore our evidence anyway so to me there is not much point.

Thanks for all the info guys, invaluable. I will have to spend some time and go over this in detail. 

Yes the bikes are both drop bars, not bar end levers and no STI. 

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