Can tyres age particulalry badly?

I never used Ones before and was tempted, so I bought a pair of 25x700C from Wiggle last year.

Then I didn't use them for  ages and finally put them on a few weeks ago.

So they are 1 year old from when I bought them, stored in the dark, with just 350kms on them done in the last 6 weeks.

They seem hard and slippery to me, but I know nothing about Ones.

I crashed on the Parra Path steel decking at Rydalmere a week or two ago - front tyre zipped out from under me. And had several other "sketchy" moments on them where back wheel lock up under brakes or both tyres skitter about rather worryingly.

I bought them thinking they were super grippy .......

See here - 

Front tyre with 350kms

 

Rear tyre with 350kms

Does not seem like much wear for a 90+kg guy on tyres 10% through their expected life. Tyre pressure on the rear - 90 to 100psi.

Anybody else had One issues, or "aged tyre" issues?

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I know nothing( about these tyres) but last year I bought some Continential GP 4000S II (28s), partly on your observations, and had a great 8,000 kms on them, including some dirt, one flat in that time, they might have gone past 10,000 but I got a bit too cocky and took them on a short cut which included some horrible "gravel" which was nothing more than a deep bed of sharp fist sized rocks and the tyres accumulated a few too many cuts.

So I have ordered more, the bicycle tyre rolling resistance test site says they are among the best tested, the 28s ( which measure 31mm) better than 23 or 25 . Great grip and wet as well

Glad you got a good run out of them!

I know nothing about the Ones, except what people say on review websites. 

They were on special at CRC so a grabbed a pair.

Maybe should have waited for something else .......

I'm a big fan of the Schwalbe, I had a set of Ones and am now using Pro Ones, all 25mm TL-ready variant, run tubeless on my road bike

I find the grip and rolling resistance very good, even with the tires that are now over 2 years old. But I run them at ~ 75 psi at the front and ~ 80 rear

You can consider them aged because I've really been riding my gravel grinder far more frequently (which I actually swapped out Compass Jon Bon Passes EL for Schwalbe G-Ones on it, 35mm,run tubeless, 45psi front/ 50 psi rear ) and so there are months where the roadie is just a wall ornament

Perhaps drop 10psi and see if it helps?

For me;  GP4000s < Hutchinson Fusions < Ones < Pro Ones at the 25mm width

Thanks Peter,

Mine are V guard tubed clinchers.

They felt very squirmy riding home on wet roads last night - I was very careful.

I'm carrying quite a few extra kgs at the moment, but I'll drop the psi and see if they get any better. 

https://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/best-performance-road-t...

Sounds about right and in line with my own experiences and bias ! :-)

It's interesting that there's such a big difference between the rolling resistance shown in the tests that you've mentioned and these results. It does make you wonder about the validity of either of these tests. 

Dabba, there are no absolutes in cycling or life. I believe one of the inputs for the two sites is the electric power needed to turn the wheel in the test rig and they use this to derive the watts. Other factors will be the speed they run the wheel/tyre up to for their measurement and the loading (kgs) on the wheel/tyre.

so if they use different speeds and loadings the final watts will vary between test sites. But the relative measurements between tyres on the same site are still worthwhile as you are presumably looking for guidence as to what is "best" regardless of the actual number of watts. I would expect the relative comparisons of tyres should give a similar ranking.

i find the puncture resistance on the site you reference also useful as I will accept a higher rolling resistance if a tyre will give me less flats.

PS: The "Finnish" tests are done at 40 kph with a "load" of 50 kg on the wheel and the BicycleRollingResistance tests at 28.8 kph and load of 42.5 kg so it is understandable the Finnish resistance wattage is higher as two of the input factors are higher. The BRR and the Finnish "Road/Rough" drum tests seem to use the same type of diamond pattern on the test drum rather than the "smooth" drum also used in the Finnish tests.

I wish someone would come up with a test that could give a comparative comfort index for saddles so I could just go an buy one that is both comfortable and gives reasonable performance, would same me a lot of money and discomfort.

That would spoil all the fun!

lol

Or you could join The Saddle Club (tm)

https://omafiets.com.au/pages/saddle-club

( Just a pity they don't carry the worlds most comfortable saddle, the Selle Anatomica  ) 

I have 3 Selle Anatomicas and have become an un-fan, I should donate one to Omafiets especially as my saddle club is bigger than theirs, I am reconciled to the fact that I am so special and unique that perhaps no saddle is good enough for me, maybe I should take up a recumbent ?

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