Folding Fanciers

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Folding Fanciers

Partial to origami riding? Into compact cycling?  Are you a folding frame fan?  This is the group for you!

Members: 46
Latest Activity: Oct 1

Welcome to the Fold!





Thinking about why you would buy a Folder?    Start with Why Folders

Discussion Forum

Spring ride Sydney 10k any folders?

Started by greg holbut Oct 1. 0 Replies

Have singned up for the Sydney harbour bridge ride.It would be great to have a folder group.Anyone interested in taking part? Continue

Hasa F2 16 speed foldable... an update

Started by Peter H. Last reply by greg holbut Sep 30. 6 Replies

So, I've done some mods to my foldable - still a work in progress, and I thought I would share some pics.I've done the following:- added clipless pedals (donated from my road bike)- replaced the…Continue

Giant Expressway am I on my own?

Started by greg holbut. Last reply by greg holbut Sep 30. 2 Replies

Currently riding  a 2011 model 8 speed ,modified with 47 tooth chainring giant grips,horns quick release pedals and shortened rear fender for better folding 82*35*65.Taking multi-model adventures…Continue

Post a picture of your folder!

Started by hartleymartin. Last reply by greg holbut Sep 30. 66 Replies

Simple - just let us see a photo of the folding bicycle that you ride.

Comment Wall

Comment by Mark Green on September 17, 2014 at 7:22pm
I similarly find the Kojak steel wired tyres to be very tight compared to the folding versions and would recommend the kevlars over the steel any day. Make sure you have the smaller width inner tubes too. The larger 16" ones just make it even more difficult (from personal experience!).
Comment by Ian Millar on September 17, 2014 at 9:49pm
Woohoo! Marathon tyres arrived from Kobie. This could be interesting, in this latest stage of my battle with tyre fitting on the rear Sun CR18 rim (my blog has an earlier entry of some success - http://aussieonabrompton.com/2013/06/28/thumbs-up/ ).
Over time I've become aware of a variety of tales about Marathon Plus (eg tough to fit, history (old?) of sidewall cracking) & I wonder if Brompton's non-recommendation for them may be related to the frame clearances when the bike is folded? (the M+ being the largest of all Schwalbe tyres). As for tubes, I'm only using Schwalbe SV4 (the Presta valve model) & I've never seen any - or gone looking for - other brands (maybe the Schraeder valve tubes have other manufacturers?).
Comment by markysharky on September 17, 2014 at 11:11pm

Talking Brompton, I was out and about this afternoon on the TSR when I sighted an approaching Brompton. Seen from a distance, I am always moved by how diminutive they seem, particularly upon approach. What then passed me was the most striking colour combo seen to date; Arctic Blue with Orange extremities.

Forget what colour swatches might reveal, or internet demonstrations, seen in the flesh this vivid bike makes a real statement, if that's your thing. You could probably even leave the bike unlocked, but maybe that's stretching things.

Comment by Ian Millar on September 18, 2014 at 11:29pm
Comment by Ian Millar on September 22, 2014 at 1:15am
Another step to being ready for the Aussie BNC?…
http://aussieonabrompton.com/2014/09/22/ignorance-is-ok/
Comment by markysharky on September 22, 2014 at 11:07pm

I enjoy all things Brompton Ian, so your posting provides interesting information. A wise man avoids saying never or forever, but, as long as I have cycling breath I will never sell my Brompton's, preferring to give them away, then. 

So, I was interested in several things: what tyre pressure you will run the new 1.35 GreenGuard Marathons? If you can determine any performance improvement over the +? What work stand you are using (as seen)? 

On another note, the splitable Moulton TSR9 is now a TSR18 courtesy of some surgery at the trusted CheekyT. This is something that I knew I would undertake, even prior to purchasing the bike over 2 years ago. I had been undecided as to what configuration this would take. The original 54T was replaced with TA 50T & 39T chainrings coupled to a microshift thumb shifter. The significant improvement, beyond the obvious lower gear range, is chain alignment (no obtrusive chain guards). A much shorter bottom bracket coupled with some better quality parts has transformed the drive on this bike. Some parts still are a touch on the agricultural side, but this does not impede performance. I have probably racked up about 90ks since Thursday last and can honestly say that is a velvet ride. It is now a versatile riders bike. I understand why these machines have a dedicated following as do the Brompton's. I would like to include a frame up build in my bike bucket list, but, love the one you're with.

I wonder how long it will take before more people realize how capable and convenient are these cleverly designed small wheel bikes?

Comment by Ian Millar on September 23, 2014 at 12:02am
Mark, my "Marathon setup" post mentions my preference for 7bar (the max on the tyre is 7.5) & I'm expecting I'll be hard-pressed to note differences between M & M+ (especially with the tyres on very different spec Bromptons? - but we'll see?). My workstand is a cheapie from an Aldi sale that I couldn't resist - but I wish I had? (& gone for a far better quality?). The bike clamp is clunky, only just fits a Brompton & doesn't fit the Dahons (with non-round frames)
Comment by markysharky on September 25, 2014 at 9:07pm

I was trying to find your original blog on the Brompton chain tensioner Ian. I have had a blissful working relationship with the tensioner on the M, but can't help feeling the S has a slight warp in the tensioner (much investigation, cleaning and checking the limits). At the very least the visual reference identifies poor chain alignment with the jockey wheels. This is most apparent when you shift to the larger rear cog, with periodic running noises in this gear assumed to be associated with this poor alignment. It is a simple system (learning), but relies on the integrity of cheap plastic parts. Yes, bliss is a perfectly functioning bike. Could there be wear already warranting parts replacement?

Comment by Ian Millar on September 25, 2014 at 10:35pm
Mark, the "Ralph refreshed" post may be what you're thinking of but the reference to distortion in the post is because of the bodge to use the 2/6-speed tensioner with Ralph's hub. The tensioner develops a twist probably due to the sprocket wheels being mounted way inboard (& the warping is due to the load being further away from the plastic tensioner arm?). I imagine Lenny may have some twisting in the tensioner arms but I suspect it won't get worse (ie the arm warping is matching the alignment & loads on the jockey wheels?) Bit too cold, wet & dark to go inspecting Peregrine & Robinson tonight. Any noises may be coming from the pusher/derailleur being out of adjustment? (The pusher directs the chain sideways when changing gear but once in the particular gear, there should be some clearance rather than the chain continually rubbing against the pusher legs.) All very awkward to see what you're doing during adjustments? (from what I remember when converting Robinson from 3 to 6-speed?). Brompton's tensioner is pretty robust although there are now some companies producing alloy or Ti versions (but be prepared to pay lots for something heavier - although "blingy"). For Lenny's age, maybe worth getting a workshop to inspect/evaluate?
Comment by markysharky on September 26, 2014 at 10:12pm

Thank you for taking the time to respond Ian, I know it takes time.

I never enjoyed crisp shifts of the two speed from new. Sometimes I would have to trigger more than once. After understanding the workings of the mechanism, including the pusher and limits, the resolution came by way of moving up one notch on the trigger shifter. The pusher has subsequently been repeatedly checked, carrying required tool with me on rides to further undertake any incremental adjustment if required. The pusher runs finitely clear.

No, what I now see is the trailing jockey wheel on the chain tensioner not running the centre of the chain. Given that this jockey wheel just slides inboard to accommodate the new gear shift setting, it should naturally run the centre of the chain. Me thinks. But no, it appears angled to the chain and, no doubt, accelerating wear and some friction (noise).  I can only deduce that the chain tensioner body is not in true alignment. Not a major problem, except for early replacement of some parts, But for me, the ride is in the detail. That's what I see .....

Given my commitment and appreciation for these robust little bikes, I am determined to understand and finesse them, undertaking any works that are within the range of my workshop tools. Any thoughts?

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